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Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the east face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the...
Arma de doble filo added to La Espada (Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
15/03/2024 - Alpinism
Arma de doble filo added to La Espada (Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
On 24 and 25 February 2024 Sebastian Pelletti and Hernan Rodriguez made the first ascent of 'Arma de doble filo' (5.11+, A1, 800m) on the east face of La Espada in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia.
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
27/02/2024 - Alpinism
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
On 2 and 3 February Martin Feistl and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of Aura (M6 AI5, 1200m) a new mixed climb on the northeast face of Langkofel / Sassolungo above Val Gardena in the Dolomites.
Riders on the Storm on Torres del Paine in Patagonia climbed free by Favresse, Smith, Vanhee, Villanueva
19/02/2024 - Alpinism
Riders on the Storm on Torres del Paine in Patagonia climbed free by Favresse, Smith, Vanhee, Villanueva
Over a 18-day period from 24 January to 10 February 2024 'Riders on the Storm', one of the most famous big wall climbs in Patagonia located on the Central Tower in the Torres del Paine massif, was finally climbed free...
Goulotte Toxic Mushroom added to Mont Noir de Peutérey by Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi
13/02/2024 - Alpinism
Goulotte Toxic Mushroom added to Mont Noir de Peutérey by Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza, Michele Tixi
On the east face Mont Noir de Peutérey Niccolò Bruni, Giovanni Ravizza and Michele Tixi established the mixed route 'Toxic Mushroom'.
Big new mixed climb on Crozzon di Val d'Agola (Brenta Dolomites) by Nicola Castagna,  Francesco Salvaterra
12/02/2024 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Crozzon di Val d'Agola (Brenta Dolomites) by Nicola Castagna, Francesco Salvaterra
On 25/01/2024 Nicola Castagna and Francesco Salvaterra made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'La Concha de la lora' on the north-east face of Crozzon di Val d'Agola (Brenta Dolomites). Salvaterra reports.
Big new mixed climb on Civetta (Dolomites) by Christian Casanova, Francesco Favilli, Mathieu Maynadier
19/01/2024 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Civetta (Dolomites) by Christian Casanova, Francesco Favilli, Mathieu Maynadier
From 15-16 January 2024 the mountaineers Christian Casanova, Francesco Favilli and Mathieu Maynadier made the first ascent of the new mixed climb 'Mixte feeling' on the north-east face of Civetta in the Dolomites. Established with one bivouac, the 560m route...
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
12/01/2024 - Alpinism
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
Enrico Lovato reports about the first ascent of 'Il Cigno Nero' (320m, 5+, M7, 40°) established on the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the Brenta Dolomites with Federico Asciolla on 5 January 2024.
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by...
Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
18/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
From 7 - 13 October 2023 American climbers Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau made an alpine style ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7710m). Their 2700m high 'Round Trip Ticket' breaches difficulties estimated at M7 AI5+ A0.
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen...
Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia skied by Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy, Jules Socié
Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia skied by Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy, Jules Socié
On 21 September 2023 French alpinists Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy and Jules Socié skied the awe-inspiring Whillans-Cochrane ramp on Aguja Poincenot in the Fitz Roy massif of Patagonia. This is only the second ski descent, after the first carried...
Watch Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva make first ascent on Patagonia's Aguja Mermoz
28/09/2023 - Alpinism
Watch Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva make first ascent on Patagonia's Aguja Mermoz
The video of the first ascent of '¿Qué mirás, bobo?' (7b, 500m), the route established on 10/01/2023 on Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from...
New Qualido climb in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Italy)
08/09/2023 - Alpinism
New Qualido climb in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Italy)
On the ENE face of Qualido in Val di Mello (Val Masino) Michele Cisana, Alessio Guzzetti, Paolo De Nuccio and Andrea Mastellaro made the first ascent of 'Impressioni di Settembre'. The 500 meter route breaches difficulties up to 6c+ (6b+...
Via Bolago established on Quarto Campanile degli Armi in Brenta Dolomites
07/09/2023 - Alpinism
Via Bolago established on Quarto Campanile degli Armi in Brenta Dolomites
The report by Daniele Bolognani who with Davide Dallago made the first ascent of via Bolago (VII, 200m) on the east face of Quarto Campanile degli Armi in the Brenta Dolomites